March 6, 2012: Mt. Adams (#27) & Mt. Madison (#28)

I've been looking forward to this hike for a while.  A winter hike above tree-line in the Presidential Range had been suggested to me in the past, but I didn't feel ready for such an undertaking until recently.  We had hoped to climb Adams and Madison a few months ago but hurricane-force winds and frigid windchills kept us away.  It looked like we might have an opening this past Tuesday.
As most people who are familiar with the Presidential Range know, these peaks can be extremely dangerous, especially in winter.  The Presidential Range is located on the convergence of three major storm tracks, resulting in dangerously erratic weather.  It's not unusual for winds to gust higher than 100 mph or for windchills to drop far below 0 degrees Fahrenheit.  Since 1849, over 140 deaths have been recorded in the Presidential Range.  We hear these statistics all the time, but I think it's easy to underestimate the real danger that exists.  I've always known that this "darker side" to the White Mountains exists, but spending a winter day above tree-line has helped to make all these stories real.  No, nothing bad happened to us; in fact, we had a spectacular day in the mountains, but it was an eye-opening experience.
We followed the Air Line Trail through the forest for a few miles before views began to open up through the trees.  At first I thought I was seeing a white cloud against the blue sky.  It was shocking to realize that I was staring at the Presidential ridge towering far higher above us than I would have expected.
We ate lunch and geared up just before breaking tree-line.

The headwall of King Ravine

The Air Line Trail follows Durand Ridge, the eastern wall of King Ravine, toward the summit of Mt. Adams.  After breaking tree-line, the ridge becomes an intimidating knife edge.

The knife edge of Durand Ridge thrusting up toward Mt. Adams

Detail on the headwall of King Ravine

We spent a lot of time wandering along the ridge and peering down to the rocky floor of King Ravine.  The wind was pretty mild at this elevation and we had incredible views in every direction.

Crag Camp perched on Nowell Ridge, the western wall of King Ravine

The floor of King Ravine

The knife edge (left) leading to Adams summit (right)

Onwards and upwards

 There were some powdery drifts along the ridge but as we ascended, the ice became firm and we were able to use spikes for the entire trip (although I would have liked to dust off my snowshoes!)
Soon the Madison Spring Hut came into view (4825 ft) as well as a view all the way to Mt. Mansfield, the highest peak in Vermont (a distance of nearly 80 miles!)
Now the real climbing to Mt. Adams began.

One leg of the approach

A view back down Durand Ridge

That's Adams up ahead!

The final few tenths of a mile were pretty tough.  The climbing was unlike anything I've ever done.  The winds increased with every step.  The shelter of the trees was miles away.  We were completely exposed to the elements and the summit didn't seem to be getting any closer.  It was hard to follow the trail so we just kept heading upward and occasionally sighting a cairn.  The wind made it difficult to communicate.  Finally the summit signs appeared.
Stepping onto the summit was a frightening experience as the winds ripped past us and threatened to blow away anything that wasn't latched on.  It became immediately apparent how easily ill-prepared trekkers could lay down and die in such conditions.
Our fifteen minutes on the summit seemed like a blur as we scrambled to take summit pictures, protect ourselves from the fierce windchill, try to enjoy the fantastic view, and prepare for a difficult descent.  There was a couple on the summit who we communicated with by shouting over the winds.  They were nice enough to take our picture and then we all retreated from the summit.

Mt. Washington and the headwall of the Great Gulf

Mt. Jefferson, with Mt. Moosilauke and the Franconia Ridge in the background

Looking down at Mt. Madison from Mt. Adams

Mt. Carrigain (background) mimicking the shape of Mt. Clay (foreground)

Based on data from Mt. Washington Observatory, we estimate that we experienced winds near 45 mph with windchills of -25 degrees Fahrenheit.  As we descended the steep slopes of Mt. Adams, the winds continued to whip us, this time head on.
As we approached Madison Spring Hut, my hiking companion commented, "It's all downhill from here...except for what's up there."  Towering behind the hut was the massive Mt. Madison.

Notice the Madison Spring Hut in the foreground

I wasn't sure I wanted to attempt Madison after the tough conditions we experienced on Mt. Adams, but we dropped our packs at the hut and started the half-mile ascent of Madison.
Though steep, the short nature of the climb made Madison a much less intimidating climb than Adams.  We reached the summit in 20 minutes and had a chance to sit down and enjoy the views.

The Auto Road racing up Chandler Ridge

The Carter Range across Pinkham Notch

Looking back to Mt. Adams from Mt. Madison

The winds really began to pick up as we made our escape down the Valley Way.
I don't mean for this report to sound like we had a terrible time - we had an incredible day above tree-line.  I just wanted to stress the seriousness of such a trek from the perspective of someone who had never been above tree-line in winter.  It's a beautiful place and a monumental achievement, but the dangers are real and physical/mental preparation is essential.  That said, hike your own hike and don't forget to share the pictures!