July 4/5, 2013: THE BONDS (#35-38)

As all true New England trekkers are aware, there is no hiking destination more desirable than the Bonds.

The Bonds are the crown jewels of the White Mountains: a dramatic set of triple peaks, deep in the heart of the Pemigewasset Wilderness, linked together by the skeletal spine of Bondcliff ridge.  Each summit affords an uninterrupted panorama of wilderness.

There are few places in the east that are more wild, isolated, dramatic, and disconnected as the Bonds - and that is their draw.  The peaks of the Bonds are nearly 10 miles from the nearest road and almost no sign of human civilization is visible from the summits.  The remote trek necessitates an overnight stay in most cases, and this keeps the crowds at bay. 

I had planned to hike the Bonds as my pen-ultimate trek in my journey for the NH 48, but changed my mind.  While dealing with an injury that kept me off the trail for several months, I decided that should I be physically able, I would hike the Bonds this summer.  A second deciding factor was that I made a friend my age who was also interested in backpacking, and more importantly, interested in joining me on this trip!  Realizing that good health and good company are never guaranteed, we made plans to hike the Bonds back in February.

After an evening of flight delays in Philadelphia, we arrived in Boston and were in bed before midnight.  We ate a hearty breakfast the next morning, packed a few last minute things, and headed north.

We met my usual hiking companion, Steve, at the end of Zealand Road, left our truck, and he shuttled us to Lincoln Woods.  Unfortunately he would not be joining us on this trip, but we were more than grateful for the logistical support.

It was around noon when we crossed the suspension bridge across the Pemigewasset River to begin the journey.  The flat miles on the Lincoln Woods Trail, although hot, made for a good warm-up with time for chatting and meeting the many others out for a hike on the 4th of July.  We dropped our packs to make a short excursion to Franconia Falls for a cool down.

First Stop: Franconia Falls.  Icy goodness.

The water was icy cold and was the perfect cure for our feet.

Time for more miles.  Past Franconia Falls, the trail took on a much wilder character.  The path became narrow and overgrown and we didn't pass any other hikers for several miles.  The trail began to climb, but never excessively.

Shortly before the final water crossing, a view opened up to the alpine summit of Bondcliff.  The excitement was palpable.  We cooled off at the water crossing, set up camp, and began the walk to the summit with only the essentials: camera and food.

Approaching the summit area, there is a large rock scramble which I recognized as the beginning of the alpine zone.  It felt good to be approaching my most anticipated summit of all time.  As the 360 degree views opened up, I couldn't help but run up the trail in search of the famous cliffs.

Pointing to the Osceolas from my most anticipated peak

As we continued gradually higher in the alpine zone, a side trail jutted out to the first vista of the Bondcliff Ridge.  The view of the razor-like ridge stretching over a mile toward the towering Mt. Bond and the steep and scarred face of West Bond is a sight that must be seen in person.

Bondcliff and the Bondcliff ridge stretching to Mt. Bond

Paul's first view of the White Mountains

The skies were ominous but dramatic...it seemed that we had missed any sunset that might occur.  By this time I'm sure I was rambling endlessly about how incredible the view was.  I was glad to hear Paul exclaim that this was a lot more impressive than he had imagined.
We explored the cliffs, stood in awe of the vistas, took lots of pictures on "the" Bondcliff, and began to cook dinner with a view into the deep and wild Hellgate Ravine.

Dinner on Bondcliff.  No, life does not get any better.

We watched Mt. Garfield get engulfed by fog as we cooked dinner.  Next we watched as the fog threatened to topple West Bond.  I worried that we might be in for a downpour as we watched the fog flow over West Bond into Hellgate Ravine.  Moments later we were in a complete white-out.  Even Bondcliff, less than 30 feet away, completely vanished.  It was fascinating to watch fog blow by at high speed with occassional glimpses of cliffs and mountain ridges.  Bizarrely, small raindrops blew up, over, and out of the grand precipice of Hellgate Ravine.
Within ten minutes, an orb-like sun broke through the fog and began conducting the most unbelievable mountain sunset I have ever witnessed.

I thought the sun had already set...UFO?

Bondcliff re-emerging from the fog

I think Hellgate Ravine is even more dramatic with fog in it

I guess life does get better....dinner on Bondcliff followed by a well orchestrated show

West Bond, Bond, and the Bondcliff ridge

Holding on tight to "the" Bondcliff

Top of the Bondcliff looking into the Pemigewasset Wilderness.  Moosilauke in the distance, sharp peaks of Flume and Liberty, long ridge of Owl's Head.

Wow.....just wow. View toward Garfield.

The experience was astounding.  I was glad we had not retreated at the threat of rain (thanks to the fact that we were cooking).  We stayed in the Bondcliff area until the last of the sunset colors had faded, then made the long trek back to our camp (probably close to two miles below the summit).

The next day we traversed the exposed ridge.... I will let the photos tell the story.

The classic Bondcliff shot

West Bond

Bondcliff looks like a fortress from the north

This is why I hike

Mt. Bond, the tallest of the Bonds

Bondcliff as viewed from Mt. Bond

Summit of West Bond, an airy perch at the heart of the Pemi Wilderness

South Twin and some cool cirques/ravines

View toward Franconia Ridge, Garfield, Owl's Head, and the ridges of the Twins

Mt. Bond and West Bond from near the summit of Guyot

Zealand is nothing special (cool sign though), but easy to add onto a Bond Traverse

This hike was a lot of fun because it was achievement after achievement after achievement...

FRANCONIA FALLS - BONDCLIFF - BOND - WEST BOND - GUYOT - ZEALAND - ZEACLIFF - ZEALAND HUT - ZEALAND ROAD

Unfortunately there was a light rain by the time we arrived at the renowned Zeacliff overlook.  It was still apparent that this is a superior vista, but I will definitely need to return in better weather.  We were treated to a nice rainbow as the weather passed.

Carrigain Notch and Mt. Carrigain as viewed from Zeacliff

Rainbow, looking toward Mts. Tom, Field, and Willey (Willey Range)

After a brief stop at the Zealand Falls Hut (and a cool down in Zealand Falls), we busted out the last three miles to our truck at Zealand Road.  It was a mostly  flat trail with many scenic bogs and swamp areas.

Traversing the Bonds under perfect conditions, complete with a sunset from Bondcliff, will surely go down as my favorite hike of this journey.  I am glad I was able to deviate from my original plan and share this experience with a good friend.

The feeling of accomplishment after a traverse full of peaks, vistas, waterfalls, and huts is immense.  We rewarded ourselves with burgers and beers at Fabyan's before embarking on a few more adventures in NH.

It is still sinking in that this really happened.  A fulfilling trip.