March 6, 2012: Mt. Adams (#27) & Mt. Madison (#28)

I've been looking forward to this hike for a while.  A winter hike above tree-line in the Presidential Range had been suggested to me in the past, but I didn't feel ready for such an undertaking until recently.  We had hoped to climb Adams and Madison a few months ago but hurricane-force winds and frigid windchills kept us away.  It looked like we might have an opening this past Tuesday.
As most people who are familiar with the Presidential Range know, these peaks can be extremely dangerous, especially in winter.  The Presidential Range is located on the convergence of three major storm tracks, resulting in dangerously erratic weather.  It's not unusual for winds to gust higher than 100 mph or for windchills to drop far below 0 degrees Fahrenheit.  Since 1849, over 140 deaths have been recorded in the Presidential Range.  We hear these statistics all the time, but I think it's easy to underestimate the real danger that exists.  I've always known that this "darker side" to the White Mountains exists, but spending a winter day above tree-line has helped to make all these stories real.  No, nothing bad happened to us; in fact, we had a spectacular day in the mountains, but it was an eye-opening experience.
We followed the Air Line Trail through the forest for a few miles before views began to open up through the trees.  At first I thought I was seeing a white cloud against the blue sky.  It was shocking to realize that I was staring at the Presidential ridge towering far higher above us than I would have expected.
We ate lunch and geared up just before breaking tree-line.

The headwall of King Ravine

The Air Line Trail follows Durand Ridge, the eastern wall of King Ravine, toward the summit of Mt. Adams.  After breaking tree-line, the ridge becomes an intimidating knife edge.

The knife edge of Durand Ridge thrusting up toward Mt. Adams

Detail on the headwall of King Ravine

We spent a lot of time wandering along the ridge and peering down to the rocky floor of King Ravine.  The wind was pretty mild at this elevation and we had incredible views in every direction.

Crag Camp perched on Nowell Ridge, the western wall of King Ravine

The floor of King Ravine

The knife edge (left) leading to Adams summit (right)

Onwards and upwards

 There were some powdery drifts along the ridge but as we ascended, the ice became firm and we were able to use spikes for the entire trip (although I would have liked to dust off my snowshoes!)
Soon the Madison Spring Hut came into view (4825 ft) as well as a view all the way to Mt. Mansfield, the highest peak in Vermont (a distance of nearly 80 miles!)
Now the real climbing to Mt. Adams began.

One leg of the approach

A view back down Durand Ridge

That's Adams up ahead!

The final few tenths of a mile were pretty tough.  The climbing was unlike anything I've ever done.  The winds increased with every step.  The shelter of the trees was miles away.  We were completely exposed to the elements and the summit didn't seem to be getting any closer.  It was hard to follow the trail so we just kept heading upward and occasionally sighting a cairn.  The wind made it difficult to communicate.  Finally the summit signs appeared.
Stepping onto the summit was a frightening experience as the winds ripped past us and threatened to blow away anything that wasn't latched on.  It became immediately apparent how easily ill-prepared trekkers could lay down and die in such conditions.
Our fifteen minutes on the summit seemed like a blur as we scrambled to take summit pictures, protect ourselves from the fierce windchill, try to enjoy the fantastic view, and prepare for a difficult descent.  There was a couple on the summit who we communicated with by shouting over the winds.  They were nice enough to take our picture and then we all retreated from the summit.

Mt. Washington and the headwall of the Great Gulf

Mt. Jefferson, with Mt. Moosilauke and the Franconia Ridge in the background

Looking down at Mt. Madison from Mt. Adams

Mt. Carrigain (background) mimicking the shape of Mt. Clay (foreground)

Based on data from Mt. Washington Observatory, we estimate that we experienced winds near 45 mph with windchills of -25 degrees Fahrenheit.  As we descended the steep slopes of Mt. Adams, the winds continued to whip us, this time head on.
As we approached Madison Spring Hut, my hiking companion commented, "It's all downhill from here...except for what's up there."  Towering behind the hut was the massive Mt. Madison.

Notice the Madison Spring Hut in the foreground

I wasn't sure I wanted to attempt Madison after the tough conditions we experienced on Mt. Adams, but we dropped our packs at the hut and started the half-mile ascent of Madison.
Though steep, the short nature of the climb made Madison a much less intimidating climb than Adams.  We reached the summit in 20 minutes and had a chance to sit down and enjoy the views.

The Auto Road racing up Chandler Ridge

The Carter Range across Pinkham Notch

Looking back to Mt. Adams from Mt. Madison

The winds really began to pick up as we made our escape down the Valley Way.
I don't mean for this report to sound like we had a terrible time - we had an incredible day above tree-line.  I just wanted to stress the seriousness of such a trek from the perspective of someone who had never been above tree-line in winter.  It's a beautiful place and a monumental achievement, but the dangers are real and physical/mental preparation is essential.  That said, hike your own hike and don't forget to share the pictures!

January 4, 2012: Mt. Flume (#25) & Mt. Liberty (#26)

Mt. Liberty (left) and Mt. Flume (right) rising above the Flume Visitor Center in Lincoln

Sometimes I feel crazy when I pull up to a desolate and deserted trailhead on a particularly chilly January morning.  Did I really just drive over two hours from Boston's North Shore so that I could climb icy trails to distant peaks in single-digit temperatures?  I must be crazy.

As we began up the Whitehouse Trail from the parking area just north of the Flume Visitor Center, we could hear echoes of the 50 mph winds on Mt. Washington.  We hoped that the winds would be a bit more friendly on these lower peaks.

It's shocking to see how little snow there is in the White Mountains now that we are a few days into January.  We had Microspikes on from the trailhead and gradually ascended toward the Liberty Spring/Flume Slide trail junction.

Once we reached the junction, we had a choice to make: take the Liberty Spring Trail toward Mt. Liberty or take our chances with the dangerous and steep Flume Slide Trail.

We took a moment to consider Edmund Hillary and his first ascent of Mt. Everest, climbing to unknown heights that no man had yet experienced.  He had no idea the perils he might face, but he continued upward toward a summit in the sky.

This was motivation enough, and we kept right on the Flume Slide Trail.
In the past month or so, I have ascended some very steep trails.  Whether it was the Hancock Loop Trail heading to North Hancock, the Wildcat Ridge Trail heading to Wildcat A, or the Blueberry Ledge Trail on Mt. Whiteface, I have had to fight for most of my summits of late.

Flume was no exception and in fact was much more difficult than any previous ascent.

Waterfalls of ice greet us on the Flume Slide Trail

We pushed our Microspikes to the limit on the Flume Slide and were able to make it all the way to the top with only the spikes.

The Flume Slide is a true test of endurance.  It is steep and relentless.  We often bushwhacked parallel to the trail to avoid large and dangerous ice flows.  The climbing was tough and seemed to never end.  When we reached the junction with the Franconia Ridge Trail, it was more than a welcome sight.

We took a quick break and headed for the summit of Mt. Flume.

Climbing the last few steps to Mt. Flume

Precipitous slides on the west face of Mt. Flume

Once we reached my 25th peak, we had spectacular views in every direction, particularly toward the Bond Range in the heart of the Pemigewasset Wilderness.

East Osceola (left) and Mt. Osceola (center)

Mt. Carrigain

The Bonds, with Mt. Washington rising in the distance

Though bluebird skies are always a treat, clouds can make for fascinating views as well.
The wind was mild and the views were outstanding, and I no longer felt crazy for traveling to the mountains.
It started to get chilly, so we began our traverse of the ridge to Mt. Liberty.  Ridge walking was a nice change from the steep climbing on the Flume Slide, and the skies began to lighten as we approached the summit of Mt. Liberty.

Spectacular view of Mt. Bond and the Bondcliffs

North Twin, South Twin, and Galehead rise above the long ridge of Owl's Head

As we ascended the final steps to the summit of Liberty, it was clear that a breathtaking view was moments away.

And now I will let the pictures do the talking...

A view over the Pemigewasset Wilderness to the Presidential Range

Mt. Flume and the Southern Whites

The Kinsman Ridge, Lonesome Lake, the Cannonballs, and the cliffs of Cannon Mountain

Zoomed shot of Lonesome Lake with the AMC hut visible and the Cannonballs rising above

Rime ice and a colorful sky to the southwest, looking through Franconia Notch

There were stunning 360 degree views from the summit.  This hike only reinforced my belief that the Franconia Ridge is possibly the most stunning ridge in the White Mountains.  I wish I could include all of the pictures from today, but at the same time I don't want to spoil everything for those of you who have yet to visit these peaks.
As you can see in the photos above, as we arrived on Liberty, the sun shined through and highlighted the entire Pemigewasset Wilderness and even the Presidential Range took the spotlight.  Less than fifteen minutes later, the Presidentials were completely hidden from sight, engulfed in dense fog.  It just goes to show how quickly weather can change in the White Mountains and how lucky we were to have the spectacular views while they lasted.
We made a quick exit via the Liberty Spring Trail and never saw another soul for the entire hike.  I think it's safe to say we had these peaks to ourselves today.  What a fantastic hike to start the second half of my journey.

December 18, 2011: Wildcat A (#23) & Wildcat D (#24)

As we pulled up at the Nineteen Mile Brook trailhead, the thermometer read 4 degrees Fahrenheit.  The sky was the bluest I'd ever seen it (other than last winter on Mt. Jackson) and the massive Presidential Range was garbed in white.  Today would serve as an epic stepping stone between two halves of a journey.  As unbelievable as it seems to typing these words, today I completed Part I of the White Mountain 48, and opened the door to Part II.

To be honest, it was completely freezing.  It was impossible to stop moving for more than a few minutes at a time before becoming unbearably cold.  Soon into the hike, we put on Microspikes which aided our climb significantly.
Our first challenge came in the form of a broken bridge.

The icy, rushing water prevented us from any type of convenient crossing.  We bushwhacked up stream and were able to cross with care over slick stones.

Though there were no particularly steep pitches on the Nineteen Mile Brook Trail, I found my energy fading quickly, along with my spirits.  I think this is partly due to dehydration/hunger.  All I knew is that I couldn't wait to get to Carter Notch and take a rest at the hut.
When we arrived in Carter Notch, we warmed up and snacked at the hut.  I think the food and water helped, and I was soon energized for the steep climb ahead.  The phenomenal scenery of Carter Notch also helped to boost my spirits.

Wildcat A rising sharply above Carter Lake

The opposite side of the notch is full of huge boulders from the cliffs of Carter Dome

Now that my engine was running, we began the steep climb up Wildcat A.  Views soon opened up of the Carter Range frosted in snow.

Middle Carter and South Carter

Like the climb up North Hancock, the trail is 0.7 miles and climbs over 1,000 vertical feet.  Constant switchbacks on the Wildcat Ridge Trail made the steep climb much more manageable, and we soon arrived at the stunning vista below Wildcat A.

The views of Carter Dome and Mt. Hight were breathtaking.  We could even see the Carter Notch Hut far below.

I was able to snap several pictures, but the cold soon became an issue.  My hands were getting numb, so I figured it was a good indication to move on.
A few feet up the trail, we found what appeared to be the true summit of Wildcat A, in a wooded area off the trail.
Though the walk across the ridge is full of ups and downs, it also offers spectacular views of the Presidential Range, directly across Pinkham Notch.

Mt. Adams

Mt. Jefferson

Tuckerman and Huntington Ravines, below the summit of Mt. Washington

There were many very steep section along the ridge and we were glad to have our spikes on.

Though the dominating view was of the Presidential Range, we also had views into Maine, and south toward Mt. Carrigain and the Osceolas.

After two miles on the Wildcat Ridge, we closed in on my 24th peak, the halfway point of my journey.

Enjoying hot tea on Wildcat D

If you're anything like me, you probably check the Mt. Washington webcams on a daily basis (usually several times a day).  Let me assure anyone who hasn't been up Wildcat...the view from Wildcat D (which can be seen on the Ravine Webcam) is a million times better when seen with your own eyes!
The detail visible on the Presidentials was unbelievable.

Mt. Madison

We had lunch on the platform and watched the sinking sun create dramatic shadows in the Presidentials.  It was particularly cold, and beginning to get dark, so we pried ourselves away to begin our descent.
We stopped at the top of the ski lifts, hoping to get into one of the Ravine Webcams pictures.
We skipped E Peak and descended via the Polecat Ski Trail, which allowed us consistent views for our entire descent.  A truly incredible day in the mountains, and the best way to close out Part I of my quest.

Reflections from halfway...
One year and five months ago, I climbed Mt. Washington.  I didn't climb Washington because it was on a peak-bagging list or because it represented any kind of mountaineering "checkmark" or milestone.
I climbed Mt. Washington because I wanted to.  I climbed Mt. Washington for the thrill of alpine hiking.  I climbed Mt. Washington to enjoy a day outdoors with friends and family.
The following 23 peaks were fueled by the exact same motivation.  It has never been about peak-bagging.
I come to the mountains for great conversation and spectacular views.  The view is much more important to me than a checkmark on a list, which is why you will notice that nearly every one of my hikes so far has been on a bluebird day (this is partly good luck).  The people are equally important.  I've been lucky enough to hike with every member of my immediate family, as well as several friends.
I'm thankful for the list because it has brought me to new places I may never have visited otherwise.  It has helped to give me an appreciation of all seasons and the sheer beauty of nature.  As I begin the second phase of this journey, I can only hope for as great weather and camaraderie as I've found so far.
And with that, we enter "Owen Hikes the New Hampshire 48 --- Part II"